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Paul Poiret (1879- 1944), a great Parisian fashion designer and perfumer
from the beginning of the 20th century, is in the spotlight at the Paris Museum
of Decorative Arts. Considered the liberator of the female body for having
decorsetted it, he inspired subsequent generations in the worlds of fashion,
perfumes, decoration and even gastronomy.
The exhibition presents 550 works, including clothing, accessories, objects,
and fragrances. After working as a fashion designer for Jacques Doucet and the
house of Worth, he founded his own fashion house in 1903.
His modern and incomparable style forever broke with the S-shaped silhouette,
favoring a simplified and refined line, like the Greek tunics of Isadora Duncan
and the flowing dresses of the Italian Mariano Fortuny. Poiret used lightweight
fabrics and bright, acidic colors, a nod to Fauvism.
A true all-round genius, he drew on his many talents as a couturier, painter,
writer, musician, and art collector.
His cultured, modern, and curious clientele followed him even after the First
World War. He traveled extensively throughout Europe and the Maghreb.
He organized fabulous parties that enabled him to inaugurate Maison Martine
for interior design and Parfums de Rosine, named after his eldest daughter.
George Barbier — Cover of the magazine Les Modes April 1912 Paris,
Manzi, Joyant et Cie, 1912 Heliogravure
© Les Arts Décoratifs